Landscape Care and Recommendations

Thank you for selecting Cashman Nursery to install your plant materials.
We would like to offer a few suggestions for the maintenance of your plantings through their first growing season.


Watering    Water plants well immediately after planting.  Shower the branches of dormant plant material until the leaves appear. Continue to water as needed.

Proper watering in areas of variable soils and low humidity is difficult to achieve.  Overwatering can be just as serious a detriment to the plant as underwatering. In areas of heavy soils, most deciduous and evergreen shrubs and small trees should be watered at 5 to 10 day intervals depending upon weather conditions. Deep watering the root system, not just the surface of the ground, is important. Decrease watering deciduous trees in August to allow them to “harden off” i.e. go dormant.  Then, water both deciduous and evergreen trees in early November so they go into winter with a saturated root area.

Water evergreens from the top for healthier, better looking plants.  “Wash them off.” Continue to water evergreens from the top all winter, whenever the temperature exceeds 45º.

Fertilizer    The first year after transplanting, use only organic or water soluble fertilizers such as bone meal, Vita Start, or Miracle Gro, or slow-release Agriform tablets.  Follow label directions carefully.  After the first year, any all- purpose, well-balanced fertilizer can be used in moderation.  Never fertilize trees or shrubs after July 1, because late summer fertilization encourages tender fall growth which may cause winter kill.

The investment in a deep waterer, such as a “Ross Root Feeder”, with its fertilization capsules, is probably one of the cheapest investments in growing good shade trees and evergreens.

Staking    In windy areas it is beneficial to stake larger trees. It is not necessary for the wires and ropes to remain perfectly taut, as the tree should be able to have some sway with the wind to strengthen its trunk so that it can support itself when the stakes are removed. All staking should remain through the entire first year. If it is a very large tree, we recommend the staking be left through the second growing season and then be removed. No stakes should remain on after 2 years!  Make sure that the guy wires from the stakes remain within the tubing or hosing around the trunk and that the wires are not rubbing on the tree trunk.

Protection    All new deciduous tree trunks should be wrapped up to the bottom branch during winter with tree wrap or plastic tree protector or other protective material, to protect from sun scald and rodents. Remove the wrap in the summer. Continue to wrap smooth-barked trees such as fruit trees, maples, and mountain ash every winter, until they reach a 4 to 5” diameter.

Protect evergreens of all varieties from dogs.

Evergreens susceptible to winterburn – Austrian pines, firs, arborvitaes – should be protected by a sunshade on the southwest side and spraying with “Wiltproof” in the fall.


Cover newly planted and hybrid tea roses with burlap or any shade cloth or mulch until they leaf out, because the new buds tend to dry up in full sun. In the fall, cover the crowns with 6” of soil and mulch the rest of the plant with peat moss or leaves. Uncover in the spring and cut them back to living wood. Hardy shrub roses should be treated as other shrubs.


Watering    Frequent light watering, three times a day, is necessary to keep the seedbed moist at all times.  Never let the soil surface dry out.  The seed will not germinate if it is not moist.  Do not water heavily – this could cause runoff on slopes, and puddling. Slowly decrease watering once the seed has germinated. Bluegrass seed germinates in 14 to 21 days, ryegrass and fescues in about 10 days.

Fertilizing Once the seed has germinated, fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer at one-half the recommended rate (½ pound nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn). The frequent feeding of your new grass seedlings will result in a thicker, denser, more quickly-established turf.

Mowing    Mow the new grass as soon as there is grass or weeds over 3 inches tall. Mow it frequently to encourage a thicker lawn and to discourage weeds. You will have a healthier, better looking lawn if your mower blades are sharp. A weed killer can be applied after the fifth mowing. Continue to water it frequently – at least every other day.




The first week, thoroughly and evenly water two to three times per day. For the second through the fifth week, reduce to watering one time per day. Keeping the sod moist at all times helps the root system become established in its new environment.  Fertilize new sod one to two weeks after laying with a high nitrogen fertilizer at ½ the recommended rate (½ pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn).


Mowing    Start mowing your lawn in the spring as soon as new growth starts.  Most lawns should be mowed at a 2 ½ to 3 inch height in the spring, early summer, and in the fall. During the heat of the summer, raise the mower to 3 to 4 ½ inches. You should mow whenever the grass has grown an inch to an inch and a half above the desired height. Frequent mowing at 4 to 5 day intervals is essential to discourage weeds and maintain a first-rate lawn.

Fertilizing    To maintain a good lawn, you will need to apply fertilizer at regular intervals. Fertilize your lawn at least two times a year using one pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet each time.  The best turf management would be to make three applications: once in the spring when mowing for the first time, six to eight weeks later in early June, and once in late summer. Apply fertilizer to a dry lawn and then water it in.

Use a high nitrogen lawnfood with approximately twice as much nitrogen as phosphorus and potassium. Added iron or sulphur is helpful in our area.

If you mow regularly, fertilize properly, and water when needed, you should not have a serious weed problem.

Watering    Add enough water at each watering to soak the soil down to the depth of the root system.  The amount of water will vary with your soil type and amount of natural rainfall. Normally an inch of moisture per week is adequate.  Light sprinkling of an established lawn, that wets only the surface soil, may actually do more harm than good by encouraging the development of shallow roots.

We hope that these guidelines will help you to establish your landscape quickly and with minimal plant material loss. Should you have any question, feel free to call the nursery and we will be happy to assist you in any way possible.